Fabercastell辉柏嘉0.4mm筒装点阵彩色针管笔草图水笔勾线笔包邮.

		辉柏嘉（FABER-CASTELL）始创于1761年，从Kaspar Faber 在他的小作坊里生产了世界上第一支铅笔起，至今已有250年的历史，是欧洲最古老的工业企业之一。目前由家族第八代成员经营管理的辉柏嘉已由当初一家小作坊发展成为今天企业员工数近5,500人的大型跨国企业

三角点阵笔杆，手感更好，更易握

高档纤维笔头，耐磨，密封好，出水流畅

笔头特写

透气的笔帽，小孩子也可以用的哦，不用担心吞下会堵住器官，一般高档笔的笔帽都会采用透气的笔帽的.

依此为：黄色 蓝色  粉红  绿色 天蓝 橙色 紫色  红色 咖啡  黑色

颜色实际要比这个亮的多，很漂亮

一大盒里12小盒，辉柏嘉密鲁工厂原装进口

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官方介绍如下:

Faber-Castell Grip Finepen Faber-Castell Grip Finepen fineliner. 0.4mm line width with water-based ink that washes out of most textiles. Larger-than-usual barrel for a fineliner with triangular cross-section and raised grip dots giving a comfortable hold. Steel-framed tip suitable for rulers and stencils. Ventilated safety cap.

Faber-castell GRIP Fine pen
PACKAGING   DISPLAYS		ARGUMENTS extra thin fibre-tip ergonomic triangular cross-section no slipping due to bumpy surface water-based ink ink can easily be washed out of most fabrics

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国外达人的一些用法 漫画 手绘 书写 标记等 一笔多用！

I’ve resisted doing process posts for a long time, under the assumption that I’m an amateur and thus it would be self-indulgent and possibly harmful to pollute the internet with my process.  I don’t think I’m much less of an amateur, but over 2+ years of drawing DCiGTH I’ve developed a method that works for me and I feel like now is a good time to capture it in web-ink, so two years from now I’ll have some material for my self-mockery.

Anyway, let’s get to it.

DCiGTH is drawn on a 11″ X 14″ slab of cheap sketch paper.  I draw each tier (that is, row of panels) of the comic on two separate pages to give myself room for making notes or doing sketching in the margins.  The borders are drawn in blue lead pencil, mostly just so I don’t go erasing them when I erase my lead pencil drawings.  Blue lead pencil is a bitch to erase, I’ve found.

Usually I start by doing a very quick set of thumbnails above the actual drawing.  These as you can see are incredibly crappy stick figures and a rough indication of word balloon placement so I remember to leave room for that and know where everyone is standing.

After that comes the drawing.  I use a cheap mechanical pencil because a) I don’t have to sharpen it and b) it’s easy to erase when I inevitably fuck up.  Sometimes I use a blue pencil to rough in backgrounds or architectural elements that require perspective drawing.  It keeps the confusion at bay, I find.

As you can see, the finished pencils are pretty rough.  But who needs clean pencils!@ That’s what inking is for.

I ink both tiers onto one 11″X14″ piece of smooth bristol board.  I ink on a light-box.  I use to tape the pencils to the lightbox and then tape the bristol board over that, but now I use a piece of special art tape (the kind that won’t shred your drawings) to tape the pencils to the underside of the bristol board.  This allows me to swivel the paper around and get the best angle for inking at any given moment, which I find really helps me get a smooth line.

For inking I use two pens (yes, I know, amateur).  I use a Faber-Castell brush pen for pretty much everything but the fine line work and anything in the remote background, which I use a Faber-Castell “Fine” pen for.  At least, the pen says “F” on it, which I assume stands for Fine.  …Right@

I don’t ink the panel borders because I do those in photoshop.  I’ve just found it’s easier that way.

After I ink the comic I scan it in four pieces, since my scanner is a measly 9″ X 12″ and assemble it in photo shop.  I scan at 600dpi and save as a tiff.

My method for cleaning up linework is simple:

Image>adjustments>hue/saturation
-Take the Cyans and Blues to 100% lightness
(This lightens your blue lines ((if you have any)) for the next stage.

Image>Mode>Greyscale

Image>Mode>Bitmap (Output 600 pixels/inch, Method 50% Threshold)

The result is a clean black and white lines that you can then cut and paste into one finished strip.  I already have a .psd file I’ve set up with the borders and dcisgoingtohell.com tag that I can just cut and paste the linework into and then save as a separate file for coloring.  Since I don’t use white-out this is also the stage where I go in and fix errors and erase stray pen marks.

All the dialogue is lettered in illustrator, except for sound effects or screams (see panel 5) or anything else that would benefit from being hand-written.  The font I use is one created from my own handwriting at yourfonts.com for $10.  Totally worth it, guys.

I’m not going to go into my lettering process here but balloontales.com has some excellent tutorials on the subject, which is how I learned.  This is a good place to start:

http://picimg.lshou.com/pic/www.balloontales.com/tips/layer_method/index.html

Personally, I prefer using illustrator because my palsied hand cannot manage smooth, readable, consistently sized lettering nor can it manage non-lopsided balloons.  I certainly did not choose it because it’s a time-saver (which it is NOT, trust me).  Just sayin’.

After lettering in illustrator I import the text back into photoshop and cut and paste it into my photoshop file.  TA DA!  Ready for coloring.